Thursday, 29 April 2010
Coastal conquest
(Read the full story on May issue of Catalonia Today magazine)
Our first adventure begins in the higgledy-piggledy, white and blue village of Cadaqués. Our goal is to explore the coastal road that winds its way from Cadaqués to the French border, experiencing first-hand the striking coastline and discovering a few of Catalonia’s native vineyards along the way.We loaded our road bikes into the car, Gaspar, (such a shame we had to leave the dogs behind) and headed for Cadaqués, a small fishing village on the Cap de Creus headland in northern Catalonia. We wound our way down into Cadaqués on a road that passes through the Cap de Creus National Park. While sadly we cannot follow every whim and beautiful trail we spot from Gaspar’s window, as the park looks to have some wonderful trails to explore.After unloading our bikes and settling Gaspar into his spot for the day, we were struck by one of the most beautiful coastal villages we had yet come across on the Costa Brava. Cadaqués is the perfect picture postcard town, unspoiled by modern buildings, framed by slate gray cliffs and facing a crystal-clear Mediterranean. It was clear why this tiny village has been a source of inspiration to so many artists, including Salvador Dali.Sitting on the beach, we enjoyed a coffee and a croissant and, with a final look at the perfect sleepy fishing village, we began the 5km slog up and out, in the direction of France.
THE ROAD RIDE
The ride is only 40 km, winding from the centre of Cadaqués to the town of Cerbère, just across the French border. After climbing out of Cadaqués, the corniche road snakes along the coast, ensuring one never loses site of the sea. Whenever we do, it is only for a moment, to steal a snapshot or a grape from a nearby vineyard! (In spring the vineyards look bleak but in autumn the vines are bursting with grapes).This coastal road is simply awesome. Which is not to say it won’t test you and, perhaps, even make you want to cry but the unrelenting up and down is well-worth the pain, as you are constantly rewarded with spectacular views along the way. And for non-cyclists, we would still recommend you go for a drive along this road, though be ready for quite a topsy turvy journey! At least there are plenty of lookout points along the way, so you can get out of the car to stretch your legs.
TOP TIP
A specialty food and wine shop with a couple of tables and a small menú.
Dalicia Cadaqués --Vinateria & DelicatessenC/Bellaire, n.7 - Tel. 972 258 811 http://www.daliciacadeques.com/
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